Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Itinerar albanez 9. Ksamil / Albanian Itinerary 9. Ksamil

I imagined Ksamil as a litlle village, isolated and quiet, where I will find some Albanian authenticity. It was a mistake. Ksamil, connected to Saranda by 15 km of brand new road, is on full construction wave. This year, the local government demolished over 200 houses which had no legal aprovements. They stay ugly near the road. It is only a matter of time and Ksamil will be full of hotels. For the moment being, there are plenty of pensions were one may look for accommodation. There are also 2 banks with bancomats, a gas station, restaurants, pizzerias, small shops were one may buy what is needed day by day. For a more sophisticated shopping, one has to go to Saranda. The same goes for those who want a vivid nightlife.  It seems there are 2-3 discos in Ksamil but as I am not interested, I may say nothing about them.


There are many small sand beaches in nice coves. They have a minimum of facilities. A sunbed costs 2 euros/day. There are small restaurants on the beach, selling mineral water, beer, juices, ice creams, pasta and fish.The water is nice colored and the sunsets are superb. If you want some nice and quiet vacation days, Ksamil is a good choice.
Imi inchipuiam Ksamil ca un sat mic si linistit, unde voi gasi autenticitatea albaneza dar m-am inselat. De la Saranda la Ksamil sunt cca. 15 km de sosea nou-nouta, inca nemarcata total si cu doua trei puncte de lucru active, care se strecoara intre Marea Ionica si marele Lac Butrint. Malul pietros si, pe alocuri, inalt al drumului are ici-colo palcuri de flori de agave, ca niste umbrele, care se proiecteaza frumos pe cerul albastru. Pe lac se vad crescatorii de scoici. Intr-un loc se deschide o rana hidoasa de unde ne ranjeste o cazemata.
 drumul nou spre Ksamil
 agave
 Lacul Butrint
 in zare, insula Corfu
 stramtoarea Corfu
coasta spre Saranda
Inca de la intrarea in localitate iti dai seama  ca vei vedea aici doar case noi. Se construieste foarte mult si nu intotdeauna cu respectarea legalitatii. De aceea, anul acesta administratia locala a daramat peste 200 de case ridicate fara forme legale. Ele zac, frante, pe marginea soselei sau intre alte constructii, dand un aer straniu peisajului.
 intrarea in Ksamil
 Ksamil
 case demolate
Asezarea este in plin avant turistic. Se pare ca numarul vizitatorilor ei creste an de an. Pensiunile si restaurantele se inmultesc, inaintand uneori pana pe plaje si distrugand salbaticia si izolarea locului. Eu nu le-am mai gasit nicaieri si cred ca nu peste multi ani va fi plin hoteluri mari, ceea ce e oarecum pacat. Deocamdata, cazarea se face in asemenea pensiuni:
In Ksamil gasiti mai multe magazine mici cu de toate, doua banci cu bancomat, o statie de benzina, restaurante, pizzerii, cofetarii. Daca acestea nu va satisfac, Saranda e la 15 km...

Dar plaja, veti intreba? Ei bine, plaja se face in mai multe golfuri mici, cu o minima amenajare. Sunt plaje cu nisip si tot nisip este si in apa. Puteti inchiria un pat de plaja cu 200 lek/zi (2 euro) si, de obicei, gasiti si un mic restaurant cu cateva lucruri de baza: apaminerala, sucuri, bere, inghetata, paste si peste. Vanzatori ambulanti vand porumb fiert. Turistii, in marea lor majoritate albanezi, se comporta civilizat: nu tipa, nu asculta muzica data la maxim, nu lasa in urma lor gunoaie.

Mici insule se afla foarte aproape, se poate ajunge la ele pedaland intr-un delfin (600 lek/ora). Apa are o culoare minunata si adancime pentru toate gusturile. Insula Corfu e la o zvarlitura de bat. Zilnic vezi ferry-uri care trec spre Saranda.
Apusurile din Ksamil chiar merita o plimbare la malul marii.
In afara de plaja, baie, plimbari si vizite in imprejurimi, la Ksamil nu puteti decat sa va odihniti. Am auzit ca ar fi vreo 2-3 discoteci dar cum pe mine nu ma intereseaza, nu va pot spune nimic despre ele. Daca totusi vreti viata de noapte, gasiti in Saranda.




25 comments:

LifeRamblings said...

what abeautiful place to explore and great sequences of shots. i've always loved sunrises and sunsets, they never fail to amaze me.

黄清华 Wong Ching Wah said...

Beautiful pictures but the "Ksamil" caught me on the spelling ...

Adrian L. said...

Minunate imaginile cu peisaje în asfintit... In alta ordine de idei, se încadreaza si Albania la categoria tarilor cu care natura a fost darnica, dar e pacat ca sunt locuite?

Traveling Hawk said...

Youy are right, Life Ramblings, it was beautiful!

Traveling Hawk said...

Ksamil is still a wonderful place but soon it will chanhe due to the massive construction work.

Traveling Hawk said...

Multumesc, Adriana. N-as putea sa ma pronunt pentru ca nu ii cunosc pe albanezi. Interactiunea cu gazdele noastre a fost una normala si placuta. La fel, micile "dialoguri" de pe strada. Oamenii sunt abia iesiti dintr-o dictatura (adica mai de curand decat noi) si trebuie sa asimileze anumite reuli dar despre caracteristicile lor ca natie, nu stiu nimic.

Madalina Dascalu said...

superbe apusuri

JoLynne Lyon said...

It sounds like Albania is becoming a destination. I've been curious about it ever since its revolution, and it's sounded like the country has had a hard time. Nice to see that it is recovering now--I hope the changes are good for the locals.

Traveling Hawk said...

Multumesc, smalldot.

Traveling Hawk said...

Scuze, Adrian, dau un miel:)

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks for the visit, JoLynne Lyon. I think they are on a good direction. Constructions are flurishing, they already have many good roads, people are engaged in commerce and small enterprises. This, as far as I have seen. Sure that such a short time and the lack of basic language knowledge do not help much to understand the situation...

escape said...

seeing structures falling gives me the creeps as it reminds me of earthquakes.

but what i like the most is that tree that provides an unusual shade.

joo said...

It seems to be a nice place to spend a while, however some of these brand new 'palaces' look a bit strange to me:)

VP said...

They are building almost everywhere...

Traveling Hawk said...

I explained those were illegal constructions, dong ho but, yet, they are alike with those after an earthquake. There are many olive trees there.

Traveling Hawk said...

Yes, Joo, they are a kind of "socialist" buildings, Joo. But they are all new.

Traveling Hawk said...

Yes, VP, and as said it is a pity! They don't seem to have a plan, it's kind of a chaos, and not much care for the nature either...

Duncan D. Horne - the Kuantan blogger said...

Lovely pictures of the sun and some interesting houses!

Duncan In Kuantan

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Duncan, for your comment.

RIZALENIO said...

I love all the photos esp the 7th and the 9th. Masterpiece, my friend. Thanks for introducing me to this place. First time to hear and see about this.

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Rizalenio! I am glad I had the opportunity to present you an unknown corner of Europe. As it was a forbidden country for the many years, we were also courious to see it. In my opinion, Albania will become a top destination in few years.

J_on_tour said...

Magnificent photos. Just when i thought that the post couldn't get any better ... it did. Tourism seems to be the way forward here but it seems it comes at a price for some of the locals.

magda said...

Forgive me for arriving late ...
What wonderful photos and what a beautiful seaside villages has Albania!
Very interesting trip, thank you for the tour!
Best regards

Traveling Hawk said...

J_on_tour, you are so right! Albania is going to be a great destination, I'm sure.

Traveling Hawk said...

You are welcome, Magda! It doesn't matter when you arrive. I'm glad you are here.