Monday, February 28, 2011

Povestiri din Rajahstan 27. Bagore Ki Haveli, Udaipur / Stories of Rajahsthan 27. Bagore Ki Haveli, Udaipur

Next day, first thing in the morning was to go to visit Bagore Ki Haveli. It is on the shore of the Pichola Lake and, before to enter, as it was early in the morning, we spent some minutes on Gangori Ghat, the place where women are doing their laundry or even bathing. The lake was constructed in the XIVth century.


The haveli, turned into museum, was constructed in the XVIIIth century by the Prime Minister of the State of Mewar, Amir Chand Badwa. After his death, the haveli was inhabited by Maharaja Shakti Singh and, afterward, entered into the posession of the state. The Maharaja added the palace with the 3 arched gate, looking to the ghat.


A tourist may visit the museum to see its inner courtyards or terraces, enjoying the great view on the lake, to see all the house objects used by a wealthy family. A small collection of turbans is on display.
Underground, you may see a little altar for the family members.


A great surprise was a little exhibition of old, traditional and modern art. Some samples of varli, phad, patt and chitrakathi paintings illustrate the rich art tradition.


Primul loc pe care l-am vizitat in dimineata urmatoare, a fost Bagore Ki Haveli, transformat in muzeu. Am ajuns cu cateva minute inainte de ora 10, ora de deschidere, asa ca am avut timp sa vedem si Gangori Ghat. Acesta este cheiul cu trepte pe malul Lacului Pichola, unde femeile mai vin sa-si spele rufele si chiar sa se imbaieze, un loc plin de culoare.

Lacul Pichola este un lac artificial, construit in secolul al XIV-lea. Pe malul sau se gasesc palate si alte cladiri, importante din punct de vedere turistic, ca si acest haveli, construit in secolul al XVIII-lea de catre primul ministru al statului Mewar, Amir Chand Badwa. Cladirea, cu 100 de camere, a fost locuita, dupa moartea primului ministru, de catre Maharaja Shakti Singh si apoi a devenit proprietate a statului Mewar. Maharaja este cel care a adaugat constructiei palatul cu cele trei arcuri, in 1878. Renovarea cladirii, ramasa multa vreme in paragina, a inceput in 1986, iar in 1992 a fost dat in folosinta muzeul.
 iesirea pe Gangori Ghat
 Gangori Ghat, vazut de pe terasa de la Bagore Ki Haveli
Haveliul se poate vizita pentru a vedea planul sau si curtile interioare
sau pentru a admira de pe terase Lacul Pichola si palatele sale:

In interiorul camerelor transformate in muzeu se pot admira tot felul de obiecte folosite in viata unei familii indiene instarite, inclusiv instrumente muzicale specifice:
 instrument utilizat la concertele d emuzica indiana clasica
Alaturi de vestmintele expuse, exista si o mica colectie de turbane si chiar "cel mai mare turban" din Rajahstan:
 cel mai mare turban din Rajahstan
In decoratia interioara, un rol important il joaca ferestrele zabrelite (jali), unele ornate cu sticla colorata si locurile de la geamuri, dotate cu perne pentru o sedere placuta (gokhra).
De asemenea, acest haveli mai este cunoscut pentru pastrarea frumoaselor picturi murale miniaturale. In multe incaperi, ele apar in partea de jos a peretilor, deasupra podelei.
La subsolul cladirii exista un mic altar, pentru uzul familiei.
Surpriza a venit in partea finala a vizitei, cand am putut admira o mica expozitie de pictura traditionala indiana si de arta moderna. Dintre tipurile traditionale amintesc aici:
  • pictura varli, practicata in Maharasthra inca acum 1200 de ani; se facea pe peretii din pamant ai caselor, cu o pasta alba din faina de orez. In a 5-a zi dupa nasterea unui copil, se facea pe un fond negru (singura imprejurare cand se foloseste aceasta culoare), pentru a-l apara de rele;
  • pictura phad, aparuta cu circa 700 de ani in urma in orasul Bhilwara, care avea ca subiecte zeitatile locale;
  • pictura patt, din Orissa, executata pe matase sau hartie speciala, avand mai ales subiecte religioase;
  • pictura chitrakathi, tot din Maharasthra, practicata pe langa temple cu ocazia festivalurilor; povestile implicau instrumente muzicale si se si povesteau, acompaniate de muzica;
 pictura varli
pictura phad
pictura patt
pictura chitrakathi
  arta moderna:
Ceea ce mi-a placut mult la Bagore Ki Haveli a fost paunul din sticla colorata, aflat intr-unul dintre coridoarele acoperite. A fost primul de acest fel, pe care l-am vazut.

Muzeul este deschis zilnic, intre 10 -19, iar biletul de intrare costa 60 Rp/persoana. Nu se plateste pentru fotografiat.






28 comments:

Scott said...

What an interesting and beautiful tour.

Liliana said...

Foarte interesante fotografii. Mi-au placut alea cu turbanele si cu instrumentele muzicale. India mi se pare tara cea mai apropiata de brandul ei turistic - incredible India!

Per Ove said...

Nice pictures

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you, Scott!

Traveling Hawk said...

Ai dreptate Liliana, asa e!

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you for the visit, Per Ove!

Joop Zand said...

A very intersting serie photo's, your a great photographer, you show us a lot nice pictures.

many thanks for that.

greetings, Joop

Rizalenio said...

Those turbans are a joy to see. Very interesting paintings and prints they have here.

Surprising to know that they still use their city river for bathing and washing clothes.

pharaonx said...

de fiecare data reusesti sa scoti ceva nou in evidenta.ma uitam la ansamblul palatului, si am avut impresia ca practic, zidurile erau facute numai, ca scuza, sa poate contrui ferestre. Si apoi curcubeul culorilor folosite la sticla - nu numai ca spatiu inchis se deschide, important e si cum se deschide . fiecare miscare, fiecare parte a constructiei face parte dintr-un gest ritualic.
frumos.

VertAnge said...

Vai, cat de tare imi plac ferestrele ornate cu sticla colorata! Mi-ar placea sa am un asemenea coltisor acasa.

VP said...

Too many beautiful images, but my attention was surely caught by the wonderful turbans!

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Joop Zand for your kind words!

Traveling Hawk said...

Rizalenio, from my hotel windows I saw them in the evening too bathing in the lake.

Traveling Hawk said...

Incerc, pharaonx, sa aduc ceva nou ca sa nu va plictisiti :) Ei, dar si locurile vizitate ma ajuta...

Traveling Hawk said...

VertAnge, la cabana din Valea Ariesului, unde am o usa cu sticla intre camere, cu ochiuri de diverse marimi, am pus si eu sticla colorata inca de acum 10-12 ani...Cand bate soarele mai ales, e frumos :)

Traveling Hawk said...

The turbans were interesting, indeed. It was a black one, very nice, but unfortunately the photo was not too clear. They are behind glass windows, so it was difficult to take pictures.

Rizalenio said...

Oh Wow! They are lucky to have river with waters that are okay for bathing and laundry.

Traveling Hawk said...

My hotel was also on Pichola lake, in other extremity, but they came by motorbikes there, in the evening and in the morning, probably from the surrounding area. There are also 3 other lakes in Udaipur.

joo said...

Another great post! I love the windows best this time:)

Traveling Hawk said...

So did the most of the readers, Joo! I liked the peacock!

MKL said...

I agree with Scott :)

Traveling Hawk said...

@MKL :)

J_on_tour@jayzspaze said...

It's nice to see that the museum had a new life with the building being preserved. Those are fantastic coloured glass windows.

magda said...

I am very impressed by the beauty of colors, the museum and the architecture!!!!
Thanks for another great tour!!!
Greetings

VertAnge said...

Uite ca nu m-am gandit sa pun sticla colorata in geamul de la usa. Din pacate singura mea usa care are sticla se deschide spre un hol intunecat, asa ca slabe sanse sa bata lumina. Dar cand ma fac si eu mare si imi fac casa mea de vis...:)

Traveling Hawk said...

J_on_tour, it seems that in the '90s they started to preserve and open to the public many historical and cultural sites.

Traveling Hawk said...

This museum was very special for us too, Magda, as it was early in the morning and we were the first visitors :)

Traveling Hawk said...

VertAnge, era usa originala de la casa batraneasca pe care eu o folosesc ca si cabana si avea cateva ochiuri mici jos si altele mai mari sus, sticla reprezentand jumatate din usa. Cand va veni vremea, poate pun ceva poze de interior, sa vezi si usa asta :)