Saturday, March 10, 2012

Calator in Thailanda 34. Palatul Suan Pakkad / Traveller in Thailand 34. Suan Pakkad Palace

During the two and a half day in Bangkok, I choosed to visit 2 places which have not been described by my fellows countrymen on blogs or forums. One of them is the Suan Prakkad Palace, on Ayutthaya Road, near the Siam Market.

"Suan Pakkad" means "cabbage field" and this is what it was till it was bought by Prince  
Chumbhot Paribatra de Nagor Svarga, the grandson of King's Rama V, who lived here together with his wife, the Princess Pantip Paribatra.
A number of traditional tThai houses of the 19th century are in the middle of the property. Thay have been used as protocol hall and to display the rich collections of the owners: historical artefacts, mineral, seashells, pottery and bronze vases, etx. Later they opened the houses to the public and then I was transformed into a museum, managed by the Chumbhot-Pantip Foundation. The foundation, one of the largest in Thailand, is very active in education, art and culture.

In fect, I was more attracted here by the traditional houses and the little but nice Japanese garden. I asked the guide how many visitors they have and the answer was 14-15 daily, on average. In that moment, apart from us, there was a single Japanese tourist in the garden. 


Photography is prohibited inside but the guide let me have one photo in the Lacquer Pavilion! This dated from the Ayutthaya period, 17th century. It was restored here, in 1959, and it was a present for the Princess's 50th birthday. The interior, gold on black lacquer presents scenes from Ramakien but also scenes from Buddha's life.

The entrance fee for this real oasis of peace and tranquility is of only 100 bht.
 
In cele doua zile si un pic state in Bangkok am ales sa vad doua obiective despre care nu mai auzisem/vazusem ceva, deci mai putin vizitate de compatriotii mei. Unul dintre ele este Palatul Suan Pakkad. Sa nu va asteptati insa la un palat in acceptiunea europeana a cuvantului.
"Suan pakad" inseamna in thailandeza "camp cu varza" si asta si era acest loc pana cand a fost cumparat - pentru a fi transformat in resedinta - de catre nepotul Regelui Rama al V-lea, Printul Chumbhot Paribatra de Nagor Svarga. Acesta a locuit aici, impreuna cu sotia sa, Printesa Pantip Paribatra.

Centrul proprietatii il constituie un grup de case traditionale thailandeze din secolul al XIX-lea, care au fost aduse aici in 1952 si au fost folosite ca si camera de receptie si pentru a adaposti colectiile printilor. Acestea au fost partial mostenite de la tatal printului, restul fiind achizitionat de cei doi soti. Initial, proprietatea a fost folosita pentru weekend, apoi a devenit resedinta permanenta. Curand colectiile au fost puse la dispozitia publicului, pentru vizitare. Mai tarziu, locul a devenit muzeu. Au mai fost aduse cateva case si un pavilion. Totul este administrat de Fundatia Chumbhot-Pantip, foarte activa in domenii precum educatia, arta si cultura.

Muzeul se afla pe Calea Ayutthaya, nu departe de Piata Siam si este inconjurat de blocuri moderne. Intrarea in muzeu costa 100 bht. O ghida ne-a insotit, dandu-ne explicatii in limba engleza. Am intrebat-o cati vizitatori au si mi-a spus ca, in medie, 14-15 pe zi. In acel moment, in afara de noi, prin gradina se mai plimba un vizitator japonez. Colectiile sunt variate: artefacte istorice, instrumente musicale traditionale, minerale, scoici, vase din ceramica si bronz.
Dupa ce intri inauntru zgomotele orasului se estompeaza, facand loc trilurilor de pasari care se ascun in ramurile copacilor din mica dar frumoasa gradina in care sunt amplasate casele.
In interioare fotografiatul este interzis asa ca va pot arata doar exteriorul caselor. Oricum, pe mine nu colectiile m-au atras aici, ci casele in sine si gradina.

In gradina se afla si Pavilionul de Lac, o cladire din perioada Ayutthaya (sec.17), adusa si restaurata aici in 1959. Ea a constituit un dar de ziua printesei, la cea de 50-a aniversare a sa. In interior, peretii sunt lucrati cu foita de aur pe lac negru (mestesug tipic popoarelor asiatice, putand fi intalnit si in China, Coreea, Japonia), cu scene din Ramakien dar si din viata lui Budha. Aici ghida mi-a zambit si mi-a spus ca pot face o poza!
 Pavilionul de Lac
Vizita in acest loc nu dureaza mult dar prin oaza de liniste si racoare pe care ti-o ofera, este un popas placut si binevenit la cele 32 grade Celsius de afara. N-am putut sa nu ma gandesc la ce fel de oameni au fost acesti printi care, in locul unui adevarat palat princiar, au preferat sa se bucure de aceste casute traditionale si de comorile adunate de ei?! Niste oameni cu adevarat Zen.



18 comments:

Helma said...

Did you lucky that you could make a picture from above the guide in the forbidden room :-) Can we take a look right here :-)

Again beautiful traditional houses and gardens. I love green and I see enough. Beautiful and versatile blog.

Greetings, Helma

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Helma! The guide was a nice woman!

Theanne said...

so enjoyable to go on your photographic tours!

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you, Theanne!

DANI said...

Eu as fi multumita, sa pozez gradinile superbe ... si casele sint minunate. Ce acoperisuri tuguiate au ... pentru o tara, unde nu ninge, pare ciudat.

VP said...

One more fascinating set of pictures...

Traveling Hawk said...

N-am vazut prea multe gradini, Dani, de data asta, dar si astea mici au fost frumoase (mai e una in postarea de maine). Temple si parcuri istorice am vazut multe in nord si de aceea am ales sa petrec o zi cu alt fel de obiective.

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, VP! A good week ahead!

Randy said...

Marvelous gardens. I love all of the green.

黄清华 Wong Ching Wah said...

Gem in the city !

Rizalenio said...

Glad you were allowed to take even one photo of that restricted area. I love looking at these photos. The greeneries are very relaxing.

Traveling Hawk said...

Yes Randy, the garden has been very relaxing and nice.

Traveling Hawk said...

True, Wong! Thanks for your comment.

Traveling Hawk said...

The small Japanese garden was nice indeed, Rizalenio. And the lady provided me a big surprise, aloowing that photo. I was very pleased.

Doug Hickok said...

You always make such smart choices of places to visit TH! They are often beautiful and fascinating to see through your eyes :^)

Traveling Hawk said...

I appreciate your comment, Doug! Thanks!

magda said...

Congrats to them princes!
The pictures you are amazing and gorgeous place!!!!
With my best wishes

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Magda! Yes, it was great that they offered to the public this wonderful place in the middle of the modern city!