Pe Drumul Matasii in Uzbekistan 23. Madrasa Chor Minor si Complexul Bolo-khauz / On the Silk Road in Uzbekistan 23. The Chor Minor Maddrasah and the Bolo-khauz Complex

Chor Minor (meaning “Four Minarets”) is an interesting monument in Bukhara. It was built in 1807, as indicated on an inscription near the entrance. In fact, it is believed to be the remnants of a lost madrasah, constructe din 1589. This part, which we see today, was the entrance gate into madrasah, a building with four towers. These ones, in spite o their name never served as minarets, having  mainly a decorative role, with their blue domes. Three of them served as dwellings and into the fourth a small and narrow stair led to the second level, to the library. If you climb this stair nothing spectacular would be revealed.

 

Chor Minor was built by a rich merchant of Turkmen origin, called Niyazkul. The legend says that he had four daughters whom he couldn’t marry. So he widespred the rumor that each minaret represents one of his daughter and so, due to the beauty and fame of the minarets, each girl found a good husband very soon.

Inside the building, a big chamber served as mosque but now it is a souvenir shop. In the area, few pretty schoolgirls, wearing uniforms with fine embroyderies, cheered up the hot atmosphere determined by the Uzbek sun.

Very near the Ark Fortress, the Bolo-khauz (meaning “childrens”pool”) drew our attention. There, the Bibi Khanoum (Old Queen) Mosque, constructed by the mother of Abdul Fayed Khan’s, presents us with the beauty of its famous ayvan, with nicely decorated ceiling. Some craftsmen are selling there their products.

The almost white interior is sober. The floor is covered by praying carpets. The short minaret outside is more recently built: 1917, by the famous local craftsman Shirin Muradov.

 

Pe niste stradute inguste si fara trotuar, cu case cu acoperisuri aproape plate si geamuri putine, am ajuns la Chor Minor, un monument interesant al Buharei. Desi numele sau, care inseamna “Patru minarete” te duce cu gandul la o moschee, se pare ca aceasta constructie este ceea ce a ramas dintr-o madrasa si a indeplinit rol de poarta de intrare, cu patru turnuri. Madrasa a fost construita in 1807 de catre Califul Niyazkul, un negustor bogat de origine turcmena, dupa cum indica o inscriptie de langa intrare. Altii afirma ca medresa pierduta ar fi fost construita in 1589.

                                                          Chor Minor, Buhara

Turnurile, acoperite de frumoase cupole albastre, in ciuda numelui nu au fost niciodata minarete, avand mai mult rol decorativ. Trei dintre ele serveau ca locuinta, iar in al patrulea, o scara ingusta ducea la etajul al doilea, unde se afla biblioteca. Iesit pe acoperis, nu vezi prea mult in jur. E doar un cartier mai vechi al orasului, fara vreo perspectiva spectaculoasa. Poti insa observa mai bine desenele, diferite, pentru fiecare minaret, despre care se spune ca reprezinta simboluri din diverse religii. Legenda spune ca bogatul negustor avea patru fete, pe care nu putea sa le marite. De aceea a raspandit zvonul ca fiecare minaret reprezinta cate o fiica a sa. Frumusetea si faima constructiei era atat de mare, incat fetele si-au gasit repede soti.

 sus, pe acoperis

Jos, in sala principala, despre care unii cred ca a servit drept moschee, se afla acum un magazin cu suveniruri. 

Cateva scolarite dragute, purtand o uniforma cu modele delicate de broderie, au inviorat pentru noi peisajul unei strazi bantuite de arsita soarelui uzbek.

In apropiere de Fortareata Ark si piata Registan se afla Complexul Bolo-khauz, alcatuit dintr-un rezervor de apa, o moschee si un mic minaret. Bolo-khauz inseamna "bazinul copiilor".

                                                                Bolo-khauz

Aceste rezervoare au servit ca unica sursa de apa pana in anii ‘20-’30, cand au fost desfiintate deoarece erau un permanent focar de raspandire a bolilor.

Moscheea a fost construita in 1712 din ordinul mamei Hanului Abdul Fayed si de aceea este cunoscuta sub numele de Bibi Khanoum Mosque (Moscheea Batranei Regine). Ea este faimoasa in special pentru frumosul ayvan, sprijinit pe stalpi de lemn si decorat cu un tavan impodobit cu motive florale si geometrice. Cativa artizani isi vand aici produsele.

Interiorul alb da impresia de sobrietate. Podeaua este acoperita cu covoare de rugaciune.

Minaretul este de constructie mai recenta (1917), fiind realizat de un faimos mester al vremii, Shirin Muradov.