Monday, August 9, 2010

Cascais - Craciun la Atlantic

2008 a fost anul in care am ajuns in Portugalia, pentru un sejur la Lisabona. Asteptam de multi ani aceasta intalnire si nu m-a dezamagit deloc. Asa se face ca, in timp ce unii stau in jurul pomului de Craciun si isi desfac pachetele cu cadouri, noi am stat pe malul Atlanticului, in tricou cu maneca scurta.

Chiar in ziua de Craciun, in Lisabona fiind totul inchis datorita sarbatorii, am luat trenul de la Cais do Sodre (care circula din 20 in 20 de minute) si am plecat la Cascais. Linia a fost electrificata inca din 1926. Biletul costa 1.70 euro si drumul dureaza cca. jumatate de ora. Vagonul in care suntem e gol, doar un barbat urca in ultimul moment si se aseaza chiar in fata mea. Incerc sa-l intreb ceva in engleza, desi stiu ca portughezii o vorbesc mai putin. Omul insa ne auzise vorbind si imi raspunde in...romana! Era un maramuresean, cu accent portughez, dobandit dupa 9 ani de trait acolo. Vorbim de una, de alta, el bucuros, dorind sa afle ce mai e nou "pe acasa". Coboara inaintea noastra. La inceput, calea ferata urmeaza cursul Tagusului pana cand, in cele din urma, se vede oceanul!

Odinioara sat de pescari, Cascais a devenit cu incetul a statiune indragita de locuitorii Lisabonei pentru atmosfera ei relaxata. Turistii gasesc aici cafenele, baruri si restaurante, magazine cu suveniruri. De la gara, o luam si noi, la intamplare, pe stradute inguste, indreptandu-ne spre ocean. Absolut din intamplare dam peste o casa care ne surprinde! Aici, in casa unui prieten, si la Lisabona si-a scris Mircea Eliade "Jurnalul portughez (1941-1946) ", pe cand lucra la Ambasada Romaniei in Portugalia.Ajungem in mica piata 5 Octombrie, cu o vedere frumoasa spre una din plajele de la Oceanul Atlantic, Plaja Pescadores. S-a facut cald, termometrul indica 21 de grade, asa ca ne dezbracam la tricou. In piata, statuia din bronz a lui Dom Pedro I, o mica biserica din secolul al XVI-lea - Nossa Senhora dos Navigantes, Biserica marinarilor - si cladirea frumoasa a Primariei, impodobita cu azulejos. In fata sa, traditionalul pavaj portughez, calcada, in forma de valuri.

Stam putin pe malul oceanului, distrandu-ne cu multimea de pescarusi. Aceasta plaja nu este, de fapt, pentru baie ci pentru barcile pescaresti dar Cascais are si alte plaje. De pe faleza, se deschide o priveliste larga spre Estoril.Urmam linia falezei, indreptandu-se spre Boca do Infierno, obiectiv aflat cam la 2 km de Cascais. Trecem mai intai de frumoasa marina si de Citadela, fortul construit in sec. al XV-lea pentru a apara gurile Tagusului. Mai tarziu, regele Luis I l-a transformat in resedinta sa de vara, numita Palacio da Citadela, locuita pana in 1908. Odata cu acest decizie a crescut si importanta localitatii, aristocratia construindu-si aici resedinte, precum aceasta frumoasa casa stil Art Nouveau de pe faleza portului. In timpul celui de-al doilea razboi mondial, la Cascais si Estoril s-au refugiat capete incoronate si persoane importante din Europa precum Ducele de Windsor, regele Carol II de Romania sau printul Umberto al Italiei.


Continuam pe langa farul Santa Maria, construit in 1868 si inca activ si apoi pe aleea care ne duce, paralel cu oceanul, spre Boca do Inferno. Destul de multi turisti se indreapta spre acest punct, profitand de ziua frumoasa si insorita.
Ne este deja prea cald si foame, asa ca ne bucuram cand un indicator ne arata ca urmeaza sa coboram la stanga, spre ocean. Gasim imediat vreo 2-3 pravalioare care vand, celor infometati ca noi, sandwich-uri, dulciuri si sucuri. Nu e prea mult dar e bine! Tot acolo exista si o mica piata unde se vand produse artisanale, tesaturi, pantofi de piele si multe suveniruri. Coboram apoi pe o panta, amenajata la capat cu o mica terasa, de unde se poate vedea Boca do Infierno. Este de fapt o grota in malul abrupt si stancos, lovita mereu de valurile oceanului, care vuieste si spumega de ciuda ca nu poate inlatura stanca din calea sa. Imi inchipui daca acum, pe o zi calma si senina, zgomotul este atat de puternic, cum trebuie sa fie pe timp de furtuna! O adevarata "gura a infernului"!
Reveniti in Cascais, ne simtitm inca in stare sa pornim pe jos spre Estoril, pe Promenade do Estoril, cca. 1 km. E dumineca dupa-amiaza si foarte multe lume se plimba pe aici. Sunt multe restaurante cu terase, chioscuri de inghetata "Ola", iar pe un afis vechi citim ca, inchirierea a doua sezlonguri si a unei umbrele, ne-ar costa 12 euro, daca ar fi vara. Era de doua ori mai mult ca in Grecia, anul acesta.
In sfarsit, ajungem in Estoril. Pe plaja, o cladire in forma de castel, apartine familiei regale de Monaco. Urcam spre parcul in care se afla cel mai mare cazinou din Europa, nu pentru a juca la ruleta, ci pentru a-i face o poza.
La intoarcere, trenul este aglomerat fiindca plimbaretii de dumineca se intorc, ca si noi, in Lisabona, odata cu soarele care apune peste Tagus, la 25 decembrie 2008.

66 comments:

VertAnge said...

Foarte frumos! Imi plac falezele cu stanci.
Casa in care a stat Eliade se poate si vizita?

Gloria said...

Ce bine ar merge acum vara o plimbare pe plaja aia.
Si nu doar o plimbare...cateva zile bune de stat la soare si admirat peisajul :)

Traveling Hawk said...

* VertAnge - nu stiu, nu am observat nici un orar afisat. Oricum, era ziua de Craciun asa ca ar fi fost inchis (de aceea am si ales o excursie in natura) Dupa cate am citit, Eliade a fost adapostit acolo in casa unui prieten, asa ca este posibil sa existe doar placa memoriala.

Traveling Hawk said...

*Gloria - in Cascais si in Estoril sunt multe posibilitati de cazare. Chiar pe langa plaja Pescarilor este unul, cu mai multe nivele. Nu cunoasc insa detalii privind preturile. Portugalia are multe locuri atractive vara (vezi si coasta Algarve)

Georgiana said...

Este foarte frumos acolo. Este un peisaj mirific si pestrit. Sper sa ajung si eu acolo.

Traveling Hawk said...

Iti doresc, fiindca intr-adevar merita!

Gloria said...

Mersi de sfaturi:d ma apuc de researchuit

Traveling Hawk said...

Cauta si Nazare. E la Atlantic, o sa scriu probabil saptamana viitoare despre el. Ghidul ne-a spus ca fiind o statiune unde se duc mai mult portughezi si foarte putini straini, e mai ieftin. Si se poate ajunge cu autobuzul din Lisabona.

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