Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Momente din Seul 13. Palatul Deoksugung / Seoul Moments 13. Deoksugung Palace

Deoksugung was the second palace I visited in Seoul. It is situated in the City Hall Plaza, encircled by modern buildings. The entrance fee is 1000 won.

It is the most "modern" of all. Even if it was constructed in the XVth century as a villa, the palace became more important starting with the next century. Meantime it was extended and it was the place were a prince and then a king lived.


Toward the end of the XIXth century, King Gojong moved here after his temporary retreat to the Russian legation. In 1907, forced by the Japanese occupation regime, he abdicated in favour of  his son but lived in the palace till he died, on 1919.

During the Japanese occupation, many structures on the grounds have been dismantled, so there are few to be seen today.A public park was constructed on the premises on 1933.

At the beginning of the visit I saw a  big statue of King Sejong, who invented the hangul alphabet, a sundial,  many astronomical instruments. He also encouraged the development of agriculture. The sleeping apartments of the king, pavilions with audience halls, a hall were gatherings of foreign diplomats were held, are to be seen. The throne hall, adorned with 2 carved dragons on the ceiling and golden windows frames demonstrates us the importance given to this structure by King Gojong. One gate shelters an old bell, constructed in 1462, and a water clock, from 1536. An interesting addition is a coffee and tea house, constructed for the king by a Russian architect. The building is in Western style and adorned with Korean elements, creating an interesting effect.

In the newer part of the palace the tourist may visit an art museum. Entrance is 4000 won.


Every day (except Mondays) the enactment of the changing of the royal guards could be followed at the main entrance at 11 o'clock, 14 and 15.30. It is outside the palace, so it is free.

Palatul Deoksugung  "Palatul Longevitatii Virtuoase" se afla in apropierea primariei orasului si se poate ajunge acolo cu metroul, statia City Hall, Linia 1, iesirea 2 sau Linia 2, iesirea 12, sau cu numeroase autobuze, inclusiv cu cel pentru turul orasului despre care am vorbit. Deschis zilnic, cu exceptia zilei de luni, intre orele 9 - 21, intrarea costa 1000 won. La ora 10.30 se face un tur al palatului de o ora, in limba engleza si, de 3 ori pe zi, la 10.30, 14 si 15.30 puteti asista la ceremonia de schimbare a garzii. Palatul se poate insa vizita si individual, fara ghid.

Initial, in secolul al XV-lea, ceea ce se numeste acum Palatul Deoksegung a fost doar o vila. Dupa retragerea japonezilor, in 1593, au locuit aici, cate o perioada scurta, printul Wolsan si apoi regele Seonjo (1593). Acesta a fost nevoit sa faca acest lucru deoarece celelalte palate fusesera distruse. Succesorul sau a numit palatul, extins intre timp, Gyeongun.

Istoria sa mai importanta acopera insa sfarsitul secolului al XIX-lea, cand regele Gojong, refugiat la Ambasada Rusiei, este silit sa o paraseasca si sa se adaposteasca aici (1897). El a proclamat statul Joseon "marele imperiu Han" si a inceput sa ofere ritualuri la Altarul Cerului, aflat in apropiere. Ce a mai ramas din el se numeste Templul Wongudan/Hwangudan si voi vorbi separat despre el.

Gojong a abdicat in 1907, fortat de japonezi dar a trait in palat pana la sfarsitul vietii sale (1919). In efortul sau de a moderniza statul, Gojong a construit aici o cladire in stil vestic, Seokjo-jeon, unde a si locuit. Aici aveau loc petreceri cu diplomati straini, erau amenajate sali pentru audiente. O aripa a cladirii adaposteste acum parte din Muzeul de Arta Contemporana.

Guvernul colonial japonez a distrus o parte din cladiri, micsorand palatul, si a incercat sa vanda multe obiecte dar a renuntat din cauza presiunii opiniei publice. In 1933 a transformat intregul spatiu intr-un parc public, lasand intacte doar cateva structuri, care au supravietuit pana in zilele noastre.

Intrarea in palat se face prin poarta Daehanmun, fosta poarta de est. In imediata apropiere se afla statuia regelui Sejong, unul dintre cei doi conducatori coreeni care au primit postum numele de "cel mare" (cf.wikipedia). Fiu al regelui Taejong, cel care a mutat capitala la Seul, a fost al 4 lea rege din dinastia Joseon. Conducator luminat, el a fost creator de cultura si ocrotitor al inventiilor, a reformat muzica clasica. Lui i se atribuie alfabetul coreean modernizat - hangul -, inventarea unui ceas solar si a unuia de apa, a numeroase instrumente astronomice de masurare. Urmarind dezvoltarea si progresul tarii sale, a incurajat agricultura (in timpul sau s-au publicat Cele 6 Coduri ale Economiei) si a reajustat sistemul funciar.

Privind in jur, vezi mereu arhitectura orasului modern, aceasta imbinare stransa intre vechi si nou fiind caracteristica asezarii palatelor seulite.
 statuia regelui Sejong
Cea mai lunga istorie dintre cladirile palatului o au Jeukjo-dang si Seogeo-dang, ambele fiind foosite ca sali de consiliu. Cea de-a doua este singura structura din palat, cu doua etaje. In 1904 a ars dar a fost refacuta in acelasi an. Mai exista cladiri care au servit drept apartamente pentru dormit pentru rege si servitorii sai. Se remarca usile si decoratiunile traforate, acoperisurile gratioase precum si dancheong-ul specific.
 Jeukjo-dang, detaliu
 Seogeo-dang
Deokhong-jeon, construita in 1904, a servit ca salon de receptie pentru diplomatii straini.
Deokhong-jeon
Resedinta si biroul de lucru al regelui Gojong se aflau la Hamnyeong-jeon, unde a si murit.
Hamnyeong-jeon
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               O atentie deosebita a acordat Sojong salii tronului, Junghwa-jeon. Tavanul este decorat cu doi dragoni si ramele ferestrelor sunt aurite. Structurile din jurul acestei sali, in care locuiau servitori, au fost demolate dupa moartea sa. In 1901 cladirea a ars, fiind reconstruita in 1906.
Junghwa-jeon, Sala tronului
 scara caracteristica pentru sala tronului
Poarta Gwangmyeongmun, initial in partea de sud, a fost mutata in acest loc dupa ce aripa de vest a apartamentului pentru dormit a fost extinsa, in 1938, pentru muzeul dinastiei Yi. Ea adaposteste acum doua comori nationale: clopotul Templului Heungcheonsa, 1462 si ceasul de apa Borugak Jagyeokru, 1536, precum si un lansator mobil de sageti.
Gwangmyeongmun
In timpul sederii sale la Legatia rusa, regele a prins gustul cafelei. De aceea, l-a insarcinat pe arhitectul rus Alexei Seredin-Sabatin cu construirea unui pavilion unde sa-si poata bea cafeaua. Rezultatul a fost o cladire in stil vestic, decorata cu motive coreene.
 Pavilionul Jeonggwanheon
In partea din spate a teritoriului ocupat de palat se afla constructia neo-clasica din 1910, construita ca resedinta regala pentru Gojong, azi muzeu. Acum, o aripa a sa se afla in renovare. In fata sa, o frumoasa fantana arteziana, in stil vestic. Aici am intalnit din nou grupuri de copii, veniti in vizita.

Muzeul de Arta, parte a Muzeului de Arta Contemporana, nu este prea mare. El gazduieste expozitii temporare, tema la zi fiind "Abstractizeaza!" Tablourile expuse nu pot fi fotografiate. Biletul de intrare costa 4000 won.
 Muzeul de Arta Deoksugung
Cand am iesit din muzeu, am vazut ca trebuie deja sa ma grabesc spre poarta principala a palatului, daca doream sa vad schimbarea garzii.

36 comments:

smalldot said...

frumos

Traveling Hawk said...

multumesc, smalldot

Rizalenio said...

The place looks quiet. Is it? Those windows and walls are very similar to Japanese styles. Very beautiful. Zen-like and peaceful as always.

Glad to see those kids enjoying the area. :)

joo said...

Another fabulous place to visit! I love the architecture, but what impresses me most is carvings and paintings.

Traveling Hawk said...

Yes, Rizalenio, the place is quiet. It is pleasant and relaxing.

Traveling Hawk said...

This palace has also that modern part, and this adds to the effect. I liked the tea pavillion, Joo!

Liliana said...

Cat de fascinante sunt detaliile ce le surprinzi!

Traveling Hawk said...

Iti place la Seul, Liliana?:) Ce zici, a meritat?

VertAnge said...

Sunt in continuare uimita de cata atentie pot sa acorde asiaticii detaliilor.

Traveling Hawk said...

Au alte valori decat noi, VertAnge!

Duncan D. Horne said...

These palaces and temples look very similar to each other - hard to tell them apart!

Duncan In Kuantan

Traveling Hawk said...

At the first glance, yes, Duncan! But if you know something about them before to visit them, you will see what they have characteristic. E.g. this one has the modern part and the tea house:) The first one - the Victorian nursery and the lake, etc. The duncheon model differs on many structures, the disposal of the buildings and other structures, because many of them perished in time.

Cristina DUMITRU said...

In sfarsit, am reusit sa "vizitez" si eu, virtual desigur, prin intermediul povestilor si fotografiilor tale, orasul Seul. Cel mai mult mi-au placut, in ordine: Gradina Pagodelor la egalitate cu nunta regala, apoi Templul Bongeunsa si apoi Palatul Deoksugung. Foarte, foarte faine fotografiile! Iar toate acele flori colorate mi-au transmis o stare de bine! A, si sa nu uit fotografiile mancarurilor si statuia lui Gandalf (astia da fani "Stapanul Inelelor")... Multumim ca ai impartasit cu noi aceasta minunata experienta!

Traveling Hawk said...

Multumesc, Cristina pentru aprecieri! Sunt cam la jumatatea relatarilor asa ca, daca iti face placere, revin-o!

Cristina DUMITRU said...

Am sa revin cu siguranta! Astept sa-mi intocmesc un "Top 3" si din obiectivele pe care le-ai vizitat si despre care vei relata in continuare. Foarte interesanta si relatarea despre metrou, am tinut neaparat sa precizez!

Traveling Hawk said...

Te astept, multumesc!

Doug Hickok said...

It is all amazing Traveling Hawk. So many things to see and photograph! Do you ever get dizzy from all the stimulating visuals. I think I would :^) I love your detail shots of designs and colors.

Randy said...

I love the photos of the kids.

Duncan D. Horne said...

Yes, it does help if you know about the place first. Each has its distinguishing feature. I love to silently walk around these kind of places.

Duncan In Kuantan

Traveling Hawk said...

No Doug, I enjoyed it as an unique chance! Thanks!

Traveling Hawk said...

I was glad to meet again so many groups of cute kids, Randy:) And I must say they are very disciplined too!

Traveling Hawk said...

Me too, Duncan. That's the reason I preferred to visit alone and not as part of a guided tour. There was an exception, when I visited the Biwon Gardens where the access in allowed only in a guided tour.

ruma said...

Sharing a moment of peace.
It is a joy for all.

Thank you for the warmth of your heart.
Have a good weekend...

Greetings.
From Saga, Japan.
ruma

Magia da Inês said...

Olá!
Passei para uma visitinha.
Fiquei encantada com a história contada e com as fotografias.
Boa quinta-feira!
Beijinhos.
Brasil

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you Ruma, you made time to visit my blog. Greetings!

Traveling Hawk said...

Olá e bienvenida, Magia da Ines! Prazer em conhecê-la! Thank you for your visit and come again if you liked it!

magda said...

Very nice palace, beautifully classic and modern buildings!!
And very loving the pictures with kids!
Thank you for the interesting tour!
many greetings

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you, Magda! The kids gave life to that place.

Life Ramblings said...

such a beautiful place to explore. the carvings are exquisite.

J_on_tour@jayzspaze said...

Fabulous internal ceilings and buildings.

Traveling Hawk said...

It is a great interest in the details there, Life Ramblings!

Traveling Hawk said...

They are beautiful, J_on_tour, especially the 2 carved dragons on the ceiling - the symbol of the king!

MKL said...

Beautiful photos :) They bring back some sweet memories to me :)

Traveling Hawk said...

Hi, MKL! Glad you was able to visit my blog again:) Have a nice week!

pharaonx said...

multe lucruri fascinate, dar imi place ca posturile le inchei, de obicei cu un iz de speranta. aici , dupa ceasul cu apa, si mecanismul cu sageti, dupa impletitura de culturi - cladite in stil eureapean cu detalii coreene, ai ales sa inchei cu 2 copii.
frumos

Traveling Hawk said...

Ei leaga trecutul de prezent si - mail ales - de viitor, pharaonx:)