Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Calator in Thailanda 9. Wat Chedi Luang / Traveller in Thailand 9. Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang was the last temple we have visited last day. We arrived there at that particular moment when the sun was down but still not dark. The viharn, a golden structure on tall columns, having inside wonderful Buddha's images, showed us immediately why this temple is a "must see' in Chiang Mai.
 
Right at the entrance, Pra Buddha Atharos is standing with the palm high, oriented to you. It is said that two villages, on the bank of a river, were full of Buddha's relatives. One year they started to quarrel over the lack of water. To avoid bloodshed, Buddha asked them: "what is more precious to you: water or relatives"?. Thus, this representation symbolizes peace on world.

Wat Chedi Luang or The Temple of the Big Stupa was erected between 1391-1411, during the reign of the 8th ruler og Mengrai dynasty. Then, it was the biggest temple in the Lan Na Kingdom. The stupa was 90 m tall but after an earthquake (1545) the stupa was sectioned at 60 m. It was here that the Emerald Buddha (which can be seen now at the temple in the Grand Palace, in Bangkok) was hold. They put instead a black jade Buddha.

The giant nagas and the elephants around the stupa are impressive, and so are the Buddha's images. A tall Dipterocarpus (tropical evergreen - there are 3 such trees, considered protectors of the town) and other structures complete the complex here.

It was dark and in the yard could be seen only the moving orange robes of the monks. There were a lot of dogs (not at all aggressive), and the monks passing by spoke with them. A donation is asked for the food they give to the dogs. A concept of their religion says that every being on Earth is precious to Buddha, not only people. It many temples (and here) there are organised "monk chats". They tell you about their religion and life in the temple, meantime exercising their English. I am sorry that time did not permit me to meet them because that would have been an interesting experience.

A beautiful reclined Buddha and an image of him conquering evils are also worth to be seen.

Wat Chedi Luang a fost ultimul templu vizitat in ziua aceea. Ajunsesem la acel moment in care lumina blanda, estompata a apusului incepe sa se ingane cu intunericul. Cand am patruns pe poarta watului era inca lumina. Viharnul, o structura mult mai noua decat chedi, se infatisa stralucind in fata ochilor nostri coplesiti de atata grandoare. Aurit, sprijinindu-se pe niste coloane inalte si adapostind cateva imagini frumoase ale lui Buddha, Wat Chedi Luang ne demonstreaza imediat de ce intra in categoria templelor care trebuie vizitate cand esti in Chiang Mai.
 viharn
Pra Buddha Atharos
Acest Buddha, cu palma ridicata si intoarsa spre tine, te intampina chiar la intrarea in viharn. E plin de foite aurite pe care credinciosii le lipesc pe el, ca ofranda. El este Buddha care opreste lupta, cearta. Conform explicatiei oferite alaturi, se spune ca doua mici regate erau despartite intre ele de un rau. Oamenii care traiau de o parte si de alta a sa, erau rudele lui Buddha. Intr-un an secetos ei au inceput sa se certe pentru apa. Buddha stia ca daca nu-i opreste, va fi varsare de sange. De aceea a venit in fata lor si i-a intrebat: "ce este mai important pentru voi: apa sau rudele?" Oamenii s-au gandit si si-au dat seama ca nu are rost sa se certe. Aceasta postura a lui Buddha nu este menita doar sa isi linisteasca rudele, ci ea semnifica si pacea pe pamant.

Wat Chedi/Jedi Luang sau Templul Stupei Mari a inceput sa fie construit in 1391, in timpul domniei celui de-al 8–lea conducator din dinastia Mengrai, care dorea sa pastreze aici cenusa tatalui sau. El a fost terminat in 1411. Pe vremea aceea era cel mai mare templu din Regatul Lan Na. Stupa avea 90 metri inaltime dar a scazut la 60 m dupa ce a fost sectionata in urma unui puternic cutremur, produs in 1545. Aici a fost pastrat Buddha de Samarald, care acum se poate vedea la Marele Palat din Bangkok. In locul sau a fost pus un Buddha din jad negru. Stupa a fost partial restaurata abia la inceputul anilor 1990.

Cand am dat cu ochii de stupa, soarele apusese si se mai pastra doar lumina aceea discreta de la orizont. Chedi are multe elemente care impresioneaza inca. Inconjurat de un sant adanc, scarile care duc la nisele care adapostesc figura lui Buddha au obisnuitele balustrade in forma de naga dar terminatiile lor sunt uriase. La baza sa, un brau alcatuit din elefanti, in stare diferita de conservare, adauga la grandoarea monumentului. Cel aflat in dreapta scarii, in prima fotografie care infatiseaza elefantii, este singurul original, ceilalti sunt reconstruiti.
 Marea Stupa
Buddha din jad negru
Intr-un colt al curtii se ridica un Dipterocarp inalt (arbore tropical vesnic verde). Sunt trei asemenea arbori in Chiang Mai, considerati protectori ai orasului.
 Dipterocarpus
Pavilioanele adiacente, nu atat de mari ca si viharnul, sunt si ele adevarate bijuterii de arhitectura religioasa thailandeza, cu elemente lanna specifice.
S-a intunecat, e liniste, iar prin curte trec, din cand in cand, robele portocalii ale calugarilor. Aici, ca si in alte temple, exista un loc unde poti sta de vorba cu ei, dupa un anumit program. Ei iti ofera explicatii despre religia si viata lor la templu si, in acelasi timp, isi exerseaza cunostintele de engleza. Imi pare rau ca timpul nu mi-a permis un asemenea ragaz, fiindca ar fi fost cu siguranta interesant.
Sa nu faci rau, sa urmaresti binele si sa-ti purifici mintea, sunt percepte buddhiste care ne arata ca toate religiile se intemeiaza pe aceleasi idei generoase.

In curte se fugareau in joaca sau dormeau mai multi caini. Nu erau deloc agresivi. Calugarii treceau pe langa ei, le vorbeau sau ii mangaiau. E un lucru obisnuit sa vezi ca se cer donatii pentru hrana cainilor gazduiti in templu. N-am vazut asa ceva la nici o biserica de pe la noi...Orice fiinta vie are dreptul la viata si trebuie ocrotita, e un alt percept buddhist.

Intr-un pavilion se afla o frumoasa statuie a lui Buddha dormind, iar alaturi este reprezentat in postura in care invinge raul. Inainte de a atinge iluminarea, mai multe rele au vrut sa-l ucida. Atunci a venit la el Zeita Pamant care si-a stors parul plin de apa, pentru a inneca spiritele rele. Acestea au fugit. In aceasta postura, Buddha asezat atinge cu mana dreapta pamantul, iar stanga o tine in poala, cu palma indreptata in sus.
O alta poveste frumoasa ne ofera figura din pavilionul alaturat. Ea il infatiseaza pe calugarul iluminat Tan Pra Maha Kajjana. Se spune ca era atat de frumos incat era deseori confundat cu Buddha. Un barbat l-a vazut o data si, confundandu-l cu o femeie, si l-a dorit ca sotie. Cand a aflat adevarul a fugit din sat, rusinat. Pentru ca niciodata sa nu se mai intample asa ceva, Tan Pra Maha Kajjana s-a transformat intr-un calugar gras si urat.
Tan Pra Maha Kajjana
Am ramas singuri in complexul de la Wat Chedi Luan si ne despartim cu greu de el dar s-a inserat de-a binelea si trebuie sa plecam.

30 comments:

Claudia Mihaila said...

Sunt incredibil de frumoase templele din Thailanda. Te uimesc toate dantelariile si detaliile, munca pe care au depus-o la construire si cu cata sfintenie le pastreaza iar simplitatea si credinta oamenilor sunt de apreciat.

Rizalenio said...

The reclining Buddha is so beautiful. I love the photos with the silhouette of the tree.

A friend told me that there are monks practicing here in the Philippines too. I was invited once but failed to join my friend. I wish I can speak to them also.

Joop Zand said...

Very interesting and lovely pictures....thanks for sharing.

Greetings, Joop

joo said...

It's really great place to visit. The details and ornaments are impressive!
Terrific post!

Traveling Hawk said...

Claudia, ani la rand am vazut la TV asemenea temple dar in realitate sunt mai frumoase. Atmosfera de acolo, atunci cand e lume putina sau reusesti sa fii chiar singur, e minunata.

Traveling Hawk said...

It was aterrific atmosphere there, Rizalenio, because we remained the last visitors. It was very peaceful and pleasant.

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you, Joop!

Traveling Hawk said...

Thank you, Joo! This one and other two temples are really the best in Chiang May.

DANI said...

Sint grozav de decorate templele lor, filigran peste filigran. Cred, ca cea mai buna parte era, ca ati fost singuri acolo si ati simtit ceva din spiritualitatea locului. Daca esti intr-o mare de oameni, nu poti face asta ...

Traveling Hawk said...

Asa e, Dani.
Multumesc pentru vizita.

smalldot said...

impresionante

Traveling Hawk said...

intr-adevar, smalldot :)

Randy said...

That's where I would want to be!

Kumiko said...

This is very beautiful temple.
The exterior design is majestic,sublime,and the interior design is gorgeous,stunning.
Every carvings,statues are artistic,elaborately made.
Thank you for sharing these photos.

VP said...

I am almost lost in all these ornaments! Love the benches!

Helma said...

Traveling Hi Hawk,

I'm a little bit jealous of your travels, because what you have seen lots of beautiful things. So also all kleurrrijk and your second series of Marena schiterend Stupa. With pleasure, I traveled with you.

Greetings, Helma

Traveling Hawk said...

I believe you, Randy:)

Traveling Hawk said...

You all are welcome, Kumiko! I want to show the beauties I have seen, to all my readers.

Traveling Hawk said...

Do you want them, VP?

Traveling Hawk said...

Dear Helma, I am glad you follow me. Thank you!

mircea said...

Sunt foarte frumoase,dar cum ai spus si tu...una e sa le vezi in poze si cu totul altceva sa le simti istoria si sa le auzi povestile la fata locului.

Traveling Hawk said...

Asa e, mircea! Dar cum nu putem sa vedem in persoana chiar toata Terra, mie imi place sa vad si poze care imi dau macar o idee despre cum arata un loc anume.

Doug Hickok said...

A beautiful Wat, and you have rendered it in all its wonderful color and light. Great work TH!

Traveling Hawk said...

It means a lot, Doug :)

Life Ramblings said...

wow, the temple is magnificent and i love the last shot of the Buddha. thanks for sharing your wonderful journey.

黄清华 Wong Ching Wah said...

Did not know Chiang Mai's temple are quite amazing !

Traveling Hawk said...

You are right, Life Ramblings! This is one of the well known temples in Chang Mai.

Traveling Hawk said...

Northern Thailand temples, mostly lanna style, are wonderful, Wong.

magda said...

Amazing photos my dear friend and interesting history!
Many greetings

Traveling Hawk said...

My whole trip there was amazing, magda! Thanks!