Sunday, October 21, 2012

Pe Drumul Matasii in Uzbekistan 12. Mancarea in Uzbekistan / On the Silk Road in Uzbekistan 12. Food in Uzbekistan


I preferred to eat mostly soups and salads in Uzbekistan, but they also eat meat: chicken, beef, mutton. Food is not expensive. A portion of shashlik and fried potatoes is 3.40$, a 500 ml beer bottle, 4$. Generally, we ate in small private restaurants which offer house-made dishes, which are very good. A soup with noodles and meatballs, a portion of French fries and a green tee is 3.45$; a vegetable stew, house bred and ½ l water has been 5$. I have to mention the “shevet ashe”, a specific dish for Khiva, which is green pasta with yoghurt, a very tasteful dish – 5.40$, including a small glass of vodka, and plenty of salads. Also very good are “mandi” with vegetables (it comes also with meat, if you want) to which I added a good soup with potatoes and mashrooms (Logman soup), all together 2.25$!

A special mention for “lepioshka”, the flat bread you may buy on streets or at the market, always fresh.

Au fost putine ocaziile cand am mancat singure: la dus si la intors, in Tashkent. In rest, am mancat impreuna cu grupul, in mici restaurante private cunoscute de ghid. Trebuie sa spun ca am preferat sa mananc mai mult mancare vegetariana si mai ales supe si salate, dupa ce la o prima incercare a saslikului m-am ales cu o tepusa plina de oase invelite in piele, pe care nu le-am putut identifica carei parti a puiului apartin! S-a intamplat asta in acest cafe-restaurant de pe Broadway de Tashkent, care la o prima privire arata bine! Portia de saslik a costat 7000 sum si cea de cartofi prajiti, 1200, adica cca. 3.40$. E chiar ieftin dar n-am putut manca decat cartofii...Anyway. O bere Baltika (500 ml) costa 6500 sum (4$) si o inghetata, 3000 sum (1.25$). Am considerat asta o experienta sau o informare asupra pretului vs.calitate.
Cu grupul, condusi de ghid, am mancat undeva la umbra pe malul Canalului Ankhor dar de data asta am apelat la salata si ciuperci:)
 cartofi cu ciuperci
In ultima seara la Tashkent, inainte de a pleca spre Kiev, am cinat la Restaurantul Credo, langa Muzeul Timurizilor...o supa cu taitei si perisoare de pui, o portie de cartofi prajiti si un ceai verde (3.45$)! Eram obosite si urma sa ne sculam noaptea la 3, fiindca la 3.30 venea masina agentiei de turism sa ne duca la aeroport.
 Tashkent
supa cu taitei si periosare de pui
Painea care se face in Uzbekistan, lepioshka, sub forma de turta, este foarte buna, mai ales daca o cumperi pe strada, calda, abia scoasa din cuptor, cum s-a intamplat la Khiva. O asemenea paine costa 3000 sum (1.25$)
lepioshka de Bukhara
lepioshka de Samarkand, la periferia orasului
La pranz, ghidul ne-a dus la Ceainaria Farrukh, care poarta cu mandrie la poarta un indicator de "restaurant recomandat de Lonely Planet". Inauntru, o gradina traditionala, umbrita si imbietoare. Am mancat un fel de stew (tocanita) din legume: cartofi, morcovi, dovleac, varza, ardei, patrunjel verde tocat, la care am adaugat paine si o jumatate de litru de apa (datorita caldurii apa era la mare cinste: fiecare purta mereu cu sine o sticla care, pe parcursul zilei, era inlocuita de cateva ori; pe strada, o sticla de jumatate d elitru costa intre 800-1500 sum, depinde de unde o cumperi). Pranzul m-a costat 12075 sum, adica 5$. Bacsisul nu este obligatoriu dar este asteptat si bine primit. Se da cca. 10% din totalul consumatiei.
 grupul nostru intra la ceainarie
 peretii sunt frumos impodobiti cu suzani
tocanita de legume
Seara noastra culinara a fost deosebita la Khiva. Aceasta deoarece, dupa ce ni s-au servit niste salate foarte bune, am avut ocazia sa mancam "shevet ashe", paste verzi cu iaurt, fel de mancare specific doar Khivei, dupa cum ne-a spus ghidul. Delicioase! Paharelul de votca a fost pentru sanatatea stomacului nostru, tot de la el citire! Totalul de plata/persoana: 13000 sum (5.40$).
 "shevet ashe", paste verzi cu iaurt a la Khiva
La Bukhara, vremea pranzului ne-a prins langa Complexul Poyi-Kalon, despre care voi povesti la timpul potrivit. Am urcat pe o terasa de pe acoperis (in genul celor intalnite in India), care ne ofera o priveliste frumoasa asupra complexului. Din motive de forta majora, a trebuit sa ma multumesc doar cu niste simpli cartofi fierti...dar prietena mea a mancat ceva apetisant: niste pachetele umplute cu legume (exista si varianta cu carne), numite "mandi". Ceva similar, cu numiri diferite se poate manca peste tot in Asia.
 Complexul Poyi-Kalon, vazut de sus
Un loc frumos in apropierea hotelului din Bukhara,  mi-a oferit prilejul de a verifica zicala cu pomul laudat. Saslikul comandat aici (oare nu m-am invata minte la Tashkent?!) a sosit cu carnea cruda la interior si a trebuit returnat...Drept pedeapsa, am primit altceva dar...cand ceilalti se ridicasera de la masa si plecau, asa ca am renuntat.
 in Bukhara
La Samarkand, langa Moscheea Bibi-Khanym, am mancat in ayvan (terasa deschisa, sprijinita pe stalpi), la Art Studio. Remarcabile, din nou, supele. Mararul, adaugat la aproape orice supa, dadea un gust deosebit.
 restaurant Art Studio, Samarkand
 privind spre Moscheea Bibi-Khanym
Ultima cina in grup sau "cina festiva" cum i se spune, a avut loc la Samarkand, vis-a-vis de faimoasa Registan Square, intr-un restaurant traditional uzbek. Supa Logman, cu cartofi si ciuperci si mandi cu legume au costat 5400 sum (2.25$)
 supa Logman
mandi cu legume
Am incheiat seara (si aproape si calatoria in Uzbekistan) admirand inca o data Piata Registan, iluminata, in care sclipea rece si tainic un dom albastru.
 Piata Registan, Samarkand - noaptea



19 comments:

Helma said...

I'm always amazed how many of you have seen werled traveling Hawk and what will you many of the world continue to know :-) These pictures are amazing and again I read all the meals are not expensive. The meals do look really great. The flat bread can you buy on the market and that seemed delicious :-)

Duncan D. Horne - the Kuantan blogger said...

It's always fascinating seeing the food people eat in different countries. The bread particularly looked great. The word 'mandi' in Malay means 'shower'!

Traveling Hawk said...

Yes, I bought that bread on the street or market as well, Helma. I am grateful for what I have already seen, and I hope to see a little bit more thase coming years.

Traveling Hawk said...

Ha, ha, interesting, Duncan! Thanks for the comment.

Doug Hickok said...

The food looks delicious, I especially like the breads and pastries. I simply love the glowing blue dome TH, great shot! Marvelous post :^)

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks for the comment, Doug!

Randy said...

The food looks wonderful.

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks, Randy!

Dong Ho said...

what makes me love this postis the fact that i can live by bread and fruits plus of course a bit of sashimis.

Traveling Hawk said...

Thanks for your comment, dong ho!

黄清华 Wong Ching Wah said...

I like to try the food!

Traveling Hawk said...

I'm more conservative, Wong:)

mircea said...

Nu stiu cum or fi la gust aceste mancaruri,dar in poza arata pur si simplu "delicios".

Traveling Hawk said...

Asa si sunt, Mircea. Multumesc!

VP said...

A lot of interesting dishes, but usually I stick to Italian food...

Traveling Hawk said...

It's normal! I like Italian food but that green pasta was super!

cartim said...

Doamne Hawkie, daca stiam ca postezi atatea feluri de mancare treceam mai devreme , pe la ora 20, cand eram mancat :))

Nu de alta dar cred ca sunt ca si catelul lui Pavlov :))

Traveling Hawk said...

Daca stiam, te anuntam! Imi pare rau, cartim, ca suferi din cauza mea:))

Multumesc pentru comentariu!

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